The tiered ruffle skirt is a trendy, feminine and light piece. At first glance, making this type of skirt might seem intimidating, but the process turns out to be quite simple.
Part 1 of 4: calculate the measurements needed to make your skirt
Step 1. Measure your waistline
Wrap a tape measure around your waist, being careful to keep it parallel to the floor and flat against your body. Write down the measurement that corresponds to your waist measurement so that you will be able to remember it more easily.
Be sure to take this measurement at the exact spot where you want the waistband of your skirt to rest. If you have any doubts, know that the natural size is generally a very good choice. However, you may prefer to make your skirt a higher or lower waist, in which case move your tape measure accordingly
Step 2. Cut the elastic
Add 2 cm to your waist measurement, then cut a length of elastic corresponding to the value obtained.
Adding 2 cm to your waist circumference will allow you to overlap the ends of the elastic when you sew it inside the belt
Step 3. Determine the length of your skirt
Choose the point on your body where the bottom of your skirt is to be. Then take the measurement from your waist up to that point, making sure your tape measure is perpendicular to the floor. Note this measurement.
Remember that the belt will lengthen your skirt by 2 cm. Therefore, when calculating your ruffle measurements, remember to subtract 2cm from the skirt length determined previously, before using this measurement to calculate the width of each ruffle
Step 4. Determine the width of your ruffles
Choose the number of ruffles to make up your skirt, then divide the length of your skirt by that number. This will give you the width of each finished ruffle.
Step 5. Determine the length of the ruffles as well as the length of the bands to connect the ruffles to each other
To calculate the length of the connection strips, multiply your waist size by 1.5. To calculate the length of the ruffles, multiply the length of the connection strips by 2. The connection strips as well as the ruffles will have the same width. To calculate this width, add 1 cm to the length of the finished ruffle determined previously.
If you want to flesh out your ruffles, calculate their length by multiplying the length of the connecting strips by 2.5
Part 2 of 4: prepare the fabric strips
Step 1. Cut the fabric
You will need to have one connection piece per steering wheel. Cut out the fabric strips based on the dimensions calculated previously.
If you do not have enough fabric width to cut each connecting strip or each frill in its entirety, then you will need to stitch two smaller strips together to get the strip length you want. By adding the lengths of the two strips to be assembled, you should obtain a value equal to the determined strip length plus 2 cm. Join the two parts of each strip at their shorter ends using seam values equal to 1 cm
Step 2. Iron the hems
In order to prevent the connecting strips or the frills from fraying, you will need to hem one of the longer edges of each strip using 2cm hem value. Start by folding 1 cm of fabric on the wrong side and mark this fold with an iron. Then, fold again 1 cm of fabric on the wrong side, in order to hide the raw edge, and mark this new fold with an iron.
- If you have an overlock machine, you can overlock all of the raw edges instead of hemming one edge of each strip. By doing this, you will lighten the weight of your skirt.
- Marking each fold with an iron will make sewing the hems easier. Indeed, this process makes it possible to maintain them while avoiding you having to use pins.
Step 3. Sew the hems
Use a straight stitch to sew each hem along its entire length. Take care to make a reverse stitch at the beginning and at the end of each of your seam lines.
It will be easier for you to hem the strips before you assemble them, because at this point each strip of fabric is still straight and flat
Step 4. Gather the ruffles
Make basting stitches from side to side of the long top edge of each flounce. You can sew these stitches by machine or by hand. Once your stitches are completed, pull on the end of the thread to gather the fabric and create the movement of the flounce. Push the handwheel until its length is sufficiently reduced and made to match that of the connection strips.
- The "top" edge of each strip corresponds to the edge opposite to that previously hemmed.
- Once you've gathered your band, you'll probably need to move the gathers along the thread to distribute them evenly.
- To sew your gathering thread by hand, simply sew a line of basting stitches along the entire length of the top edge of the strip, making each stitch approximately 1cm long. Be sure to leave a substantial length of thread after your last stitch, so that you can gather the fabric.
- To machine your gathers thread, adjust the stitch length to the maximum and the tension so that it is as strong as possible. Leave a substantial length of thread at the end of your seam, then adjust the gathers by pulling on this thread.
Part 3 of 4: Fit the skirt
Step 1. Go up the lower floor
Place the first ruffle below the first connecting strip, right sides together, lining them up at the top seam. Pin them, then stitch them together, making a line of stitching along the entire length of the top edge. To make this assembly, use 1 cm of seam allowance.
- Due to the nature of the steering wheels, it is recommended to multiply the amount of pins used for attaching the steering wheels to the connection strips. The additional pins will prevent the ruffles from shifting or bending and thus adopting an appearance that is not as expected.
- Check the assembly you just made to make sure that the gathers are even and that no creases have formed.
- Although not necessary, you can overcast this assembly, however, if you wish.
Step 2. Unfold the floor
Open the two strips you just put together so that the right side of the fabric becomes visible. Then iron the seam to flatten the fabric.
When you deploy the stage on your work surface, the connector strip should be above the steering wheel
Step 3. Add the second flywheel
Place the next handwheel on the first stage connection strip. Make sure that the side of the steering wheel and that of the floor are facing outwards. Place the following connection strip on top of the assembly, taking care to orient the reverse side of this strip inward. Align, then pin the set and sew a line of stitching along the entire length of the top edge, using 1cm of seam allowance.
As indicated previously, prefer to use a large number of pins to ensure the maintenance of the ruffle while you sew all the layers of fabric
Step 4. Flip over the connector strip located on top of the assembly
Unfold the connecting strip of your second floor so that the place of the fabric becomes visible. Iron the new seam made to flatten it.
This connecting strip should now form the top of your skirt
Step 5. Add the following ruffles by following the same process
The following ruffles should be sewn to the top of the skirt using the same method as that used to climb the second floor.
- Sandwich the flywheel between the previously mounted connection strip and the next connection strip. The location of the skirt floors already fitted as well as that of the new steering wheel must face outwards while the location of the new connection strip must always be oriented inwards.
- Before making your seam line along the entire length of the upper edge, take care to pin all the layers of fabric and keep a seam allowance equal to 1 cm.
- Turn the connecting strip on top of the assembly over, then iron the seam before starting to assemble the next floor.
- Repeat the operation as many times as necessary, until all of your steering wheels and connection strips have been added.
Part 4 of 4: Give your skirt its final shape
Step 1. Assemble the side
Once all of your floors have been assembled, fold your assembly in half vertically, right sides together (the back will therefore face outward). Pin the two edges that have overlapped, then make a seam line along the entire length using 1 cm of seam allowance.
Sew along the edge of the stacked sides, bottom to top, making sure to stop just before the connecting strip at the top of the skirt. Indeed, you will not have to assemble the ends of this strip immediately
Step 2. Make a slide for the belt
Working from the wrong side, fold the connecting strip at the top of the skirt towards you, to create a slide the same or slightly larger in width than your elastic. Then, pin and sew the slide.
- Make a seam line the entire length of the open edge of the slide using as narrow a seam allowance as possible. Do not sew the shorter ends so that the slide remains open.
- Note that you shouldn't need to hide the open edge by tucking it under the slide. Indeed, if you have followed the instructions carefully, you should have previously made the raw edge disappear by making a hem on this connection strip.
- Once the slide is sewn, remember to iron it to flatten it.
Step 3. Pass the elastic in the slide
Attach a small safety pin to one end of your elastic and a large safety pin to the opposite end. Insert the small pin and the elastic attached to it into the slide. Then, guide the assembly with your fingers, through the slide, until it comes out on the other side.
The small safety pin will facilitate the passage of the elastic in the slide and the large pin will prevent the opposite end of the elastic from slipping
Step 4. Join the two ends of the elastic
Superimpose the ends of the elastic on 1 cm. Pin them, then use a needle to stitch them together.
Step 5. Close the belt
Tuck the ends of the elastic into the slide. Then, join the two raw edges of the slide and assemble them using 1 cm of seam allowance.
Step 6. Try on the skirt
Turn the skirt right side up, then put it on and look at yourself in a mirror. The length of the skirt should match your expectations, and the elastic, adjusted to your waist, should provide you with a comfortable fit.